DIY: Simplicity S1316 Rayon Challis Top

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Simplicity S1316 was my last sewing project last year. I cut it out and sewed it about halfway, then I lost my sewjo over the winter. During lockdown this spring, I finally found time to finish it! Simplicity S1316 is a top with separate patterns for B, C, and D cup sizes with neckline, sleeve and embellishment options. I chose to make view A, which uses just one type of fabric with a plain V-neck.

One of the reasons that I took so long to finish this top was that I wanted it to have pretty guts! The front and back are each made up of three pieces, and as rayon challis tends to fray, I finished each raw edge with bias tape. However, the top also has kimono-style sleeves that are cut in one piece with the bodice sides. As a result, the side seams are curved and clipped, and I was not sure how to finish those neatly. In the end, I just zigzagged over them to minimize fraying.

To sew my top, I used a beautiful rayon challis from Fabric.com. It has a print of Seigaiha with orange koi. I love the Japanese design! As the pattern was small enough, I didn’t have to bother trying to match the print across seamlines. Unfortunately, I don’t think any more of this fabric is available as I bought it one or two years ago. Rayon challis is a soft, lightweight fabric that has beautiful drape. I’ve used it to make several summer projects in the past:

• McCall’s M7193 Gathered Surplice Blouse
• Vogue V9053 Deep V Dress
• Simplicity 8061 V-Neck Top
• McCall’s M7381 Pullover Dress with Front Tie
• McCall’s M7317 Pleated Surplice Dress

Simplicity S1316 has a neck facing, which I would normally just fold over and sew. However, this time I finished the raw edge with bias binding as well. Unfortunately all my extra care in finishing seams caused me to stretch out the neckline a bit. Oh well, that just makes the top cool and breezy! Perfect for summer!

For closures, a button and thread loop finish the back neckline. I had a single button from my stash, so that worked well. Originally bought this pattern because it has separate pieces for different cup sizes. Thankfully that means I didn’t have to do an FBA! I sewed a size 18 with a D cup, and I think the fit is good – body skimming but loose enough for summer.

Get the Simplicity S1316 pattern here.